Historical & Artisitic styles

1. American Underdress

American Underdress, ca. 1827. White cotton and broderie anglaise trim. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

This underdress is poised between a period of classicism, with its columnar silhouette, and eclectic romanticism, with its burgeoning skirt forms. Made of plain white cotton with an applied hem of broderie anglaise, the dress has been trimmed with fine self-piping along the seamlines of its bodice. Originally catalogued as a finished dress because of its fully constructed sleeves and the fineness of its detailed workmanship, it was more likely intended to be worn under another dress of some transparency.

2. Memento Mori Necklace

Simon Costin. “Memento Mori” Necklace, 1986. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

The necklace is a black synthetic tulle with jet-bead and rock-crystal embroidery, two bird claws, carved black wood beads, and three rabbit skulls with hematite eyes. Simon Costin inspired by decadent literature of the late nineteenth century. His used of taxidermy, seemingly retrieved from some obsessional collector’s cabinet, and his incorporation of materials evocative of the late Victorian cult of mourning are poised between poetic morbidity and necromantic glamour.

3. Chinese Garden

Designer-Philip Treacy for Alexander Macqueen, Spring 2005, Chinese Garden.

Philip Treacy’s hat is exquisite sculptures. His work is characterized by the virtuosity of his technique and imagination. This Chinese garden refers to the popularity of Chinoiserie in the eighteenth century and to the 1770s fashion for elaborate landscapes constructed in the topography of a woman’s heroically sculpted hair.

4. Crorodile Rock

Designer- John Galliano for Christain Dior , Spring/ Summmer 2003.

Red silk tulle with crocodile appliqué. In this garment, from his ready-to-wear collection at Christian Dior, Galliano inspired by the late 1920s, when the knee-baring chemise was transitioning into the bias cut languor of the 1930s.

5. YSL dress

Designer- Yves Saint Laurant, 2002 collection, Mondrain's artwork 1960s.

Yves Saint Laurant sack dress was inspired by Mondrain's artwork. He created the ideal field of color blocked. He was a master colorist, able to mix green, blue, rose and yellow in one outfit to achieve an effect that was artistic and never garish.

6. YSL dress

Yves Saint Laurent fashion headquarters, Paris in 2004. Photograph: JEAN-PIERRE MULLER/AFP/Getty Images

Yves Saint Laurent inspired this dress by Andy Warhol art, which is colorful and focusing on pop art. The dress is mix of violet contrasting with women shape in pink color like the Andy Warhol art.

Geneology Of Heels

1970s

Platform shoes become popular in 1970s and the era of John Travolta’s Cuban-heeled. The 1970s in general were a time of experimentation of drugs, sex and, of course, fashion. Cynicism abounded as various cultures and subcultures vied for public attention. Men as well as women would dress to shock, often wearing platform shoes reminiscent of the ancient kothorni.

The late 18th century
Trend toward lower heels had much to do with the French Revolution. During the revolution, high heels became acquainted with the luxury. As a result, most people wished to avoid a symbol of wealth, which was remarkable in the elimination of heels from the common market for both men and women. In the French Revolution heels become lower than at any time in the 18th century.

1660

In the early 1700s, the heels represented wealth and symbol status for both men and women. France's King Louis XIV (The Sun King) would often wear intricate heels decorated with miniature battle scenes. Called “Louis heels,” they were often as tall as five inches. The king decreed that only nobility could wear heels that were colored red and that no one's heels could be higher than his own.

1533

In 1533, the first women's heel designed to lengthen the legs. They were most notably worn by Catherine d'Medici for her wedding, at age 14, to make her appear two inches taller. Also around this time Mary Tudor began to wear high heels.The high heel may have been invented by Leonardo da Vinci.

Approximate 200 BC

In 200 BC the heel made the way into the world of fashion among Roman actors with the arrival of wood and cork platform soles called kothorni. The kothorni give the advantage of height.

Approximated 4,000 BC, Ancient Egyptian

Some of the earliest pictures of shoes were seen on ancient Egyptian around 4,000 BC. These were pieces of leather laced onto the feet or sandals made of woven rushes. It is thought that Egyptian butchers would wear a heeled shoe to keep their feet away from the gore involved in their job.

Compilation of Historical Styles

Classical Revival

1.

Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2008, Paris

This dress was inspired by Ancient Greek. The dress was low cut neck with the high waist, and long dress.

2.

Rutger Jan Schimmelpenninck and his family, 1801-1802, Classical Revival Period-1895-1950

The women wore thin gauzy outer dresses. The dresses were high waist with the loow cut neck and long skirt reaching the floor inspired by Greek in Empire Gown.

Folklore

Thai costume for Rocket Festival, May 16, 2005, Yasothon Thailand

The dresses use for celebrating Rocket Festival, which is a merit-making ceremony traditionally practiced throughout Northeast Thailand by many villages near the beginning of rainy season.

Hippie,San Francisco, Ancient Period-early 1960s

The hippie was originally a youth movement that began in the United Stated during the early 1960s and spread around the world. The word hippie come from hipster, and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. The hippie garment is worn by a group of people, who has a culture as a myriad forms such as health foods, music festivals and contemporary sexual mores.

Ethnic

Christian Dior, Spring 2008, Paris

The exquisite geometric dress was look like Kimono. The Japanese hair style also blend with the dress give the feeling of modern Japanese garments. John Galliano used the characteristic of Kimono dress for Western fashion.

The kimono is the traditional clothing of Japan. Kimono styles have changed significantly from one period of history to another, with many different types of kimonos worn by men, women and children in Japan today. The cut, color, fabric and decorations of a kimono may vary according to the sex, age and marital status of the wearer, the season of the year and the occasion for which the kimono is worn.Today, a Japanese woman usually owns only one kimono, which she wears for her coming of age ceremony on her 20th birthday. For weddings, a complete bridal kimono and accompanying apparel are usually rented.

Classical Garments

1.

Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2008, Paris.

This dress inspired by Classical Greek garment. It's very feminine by long sheer dress and draping.

2.

The Classical garment of Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of wool or linen, generally rectangular and secured at the shoulders with ornamented pins called fibulae and belted with a sash. Typical garments were the peplos, a loose robe worn by women; the chlamys, a cloak worn by men; and the chiton, a tunic worn by both men and women. Men’s chitons hung to the knees, whereas women’s chitons fell to their ankles. A long cloak called a himation was worn over the peplos or chlamys.

Medieval Garments

1.

Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2007, Paris

This dress from Alexander Macqueen inspired by Medieval garment. It's a long

2.

Charles d'Orleans (1394-1465) and Mary of Cleves (1426-1487) under a canopy. Tapestry from a Brussels workshop. 1470.Location :Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, France. Ancient Period-11th-13th centuries.

Medieval clothing varied according to the social status of the people. The clothing worn by nobility and upper classes was clearly different than the lower class. Early medieval women's clothing consisted of "kirtles", which were tunics worn to their ankles. These tunics were often worn over a shirt. When the women were in public, they often topped the tunics with an even shorter "kirtle." Of course the more affluent women wore more luxurious clothing than those of the less affluent lifestyle. Women, especially those who were married, wore tight-fitting caps and nets over their hair, which was wound in a "bun" on their heads. Other women wore veils over their hair, which was left either hanging loosely, or braided tightly.

Draped and Tailored garments

Historical Tailored Garments

1. Jeans

Designer-D&G,Models-Abbey Lee,Material-cotton, Spring 2010 RTW, Milan

Jeans was originally patented in 1873 and became popular in 1950 among teenagers. No one doesn't know jeans. Jeans is never fad from fashion world. The historic brands are Levi's and Wrangler. Jeans represents casual dress around the world.

2. Pleated kalasiris

The beginning of Old Kingdom around 2700 B.C.E to the the end of New Kingdom in around 750 B.C.E., Material- linen, Source-Karl Kohler.

The kalasiris was the uniform of the Egyptian woman. The kalasiris was a very close-fitting tube dress, sewn at the side, that was held up by two straps that attached behind the neck. The straps came together at the front and the breasts were exposed. The kalasiris was very elegant by sewing technique and pleated fabric, that fit body so perfectly. Some type of the dress had a single strap that went over one shoulder but were still fitting form.

3. Chinese Uniform

Republic China(1912-1949),Sun Yat-sen and his wife Song Qingling, Shanghai, 1922

Sun Yat-sen worn a jacket with a closed-stand collar and centre-front opening known as Qiling wenzhuang, which was popularly worn by Chinese students in Japan and south-east Asia and inspired by the Japanese student's uniform. Song Qingling worn a jacket and skirt or aoqun.

Historical Draped Garments

1. Sari

Aryan period(about 1500 BC), Materials-silk and cotton, Damayanthi in Sari, Artist- Raja Ravi Varma

women wore one very long piece of cloth called a sari, that they wrapped around themselves in different ways. The word “sari” comes from a Sanskrit word that just means cloth. Wealthy women wore saris made of silk, but most women wore cotton ones.There were many different ways of draping saris. Women wore them like skirts with a top part thrown over their shoulder or worn over their heads as a veil.

2. Buddhist Monk Robe

Ancient period- 400B.C.E., Material-Cotton, Date Photographed-2008,Thailand.

The Buddhist monk robe was designed since 400 BCE. Originally, monks collected discarded fabrics and wore them as their outfit. Nowadays, people donate new robe to munks every year. But the simple concept is still as same as the original. They wrap the fabric around their body and gather it over one shoulder.

3. Stola and Pulla in ancient Rome period

Ancient from early in the Roman Republic(509-27B.C.E.)to late in the Roman Empire(27B.C.E.-476C.E.), Material silk.

The female garment in this period was the stola. It’s a long tunic covering to the foot.The lower hem of the stola is decorated with an ornamental border. The elegant palla is held in place by a broach on the left shoulder. Stola could have short sleeves, long sleeves, and sleeveless. The stola was worn shorter than the under tunic in order to show the layers of the garment, which identify to wealth and status.

The Six Functions of Dress

1. Sexual Enhancement  

Milan, Spring 2010 ready-to-wear, D&G

These pictures create the sexual and sexy look. The first is see through dress using the sheer lace fabric creates the sexy look worn by Snejana. The second is a very short pant and bra, which look like swimsuit worn by Charlotte di Calypso.

2. Ceremonial 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10186213@N07/2799999884/in/photostream/

This picture is about Thai wedding. The dresses are especially for wedding ceremony. The dresses are similar to Thai dress in historical period before 1910, because we want to collect Thai tradition and custom. The wedding dress of women is exquisite, which makes from silk and decorates with laces, beads, and jewelry.   

3. Group Membership

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/12392252@N03/2775155946/, the present time 

This picture depicts a group of Thai students, who are wearing Thai uniform of a university. This uniform identify the culture of student in every universities in Thailand. I have never seen the other countries that have the university's uniform like Thailand. I used to wear it and I liked the form very much. It's fit to the body and comfortable.

4. Gender Differentiation

                                           These dress before 1910, Thai textile museum.

Thai culture is the same as Western culture that men don't wear the skirt. Thai men always wear pants. They don't make up and have a lot accessories like women do. This picture depict the outfits that can distinguish between men and women. 

5. Decoration

                                  "Thai Chakkri", 6th-13th centuries, Thai textile museum. 

These dress called Thai Chakkri. The costume of men decorates by necklace,bracelet, and belt. On the other hand, The costume for women decorates by gold belt, jewelry, unique thai pattern fabric, bracelet, and necklace. The woman hair style is a bun, and show the face. The men hair style is also show their face and smooth.   

6.Environmental Protection

                                         "Thai Chitlada", 9th-13th centuries,Thai textile museum.

Thailand is located in Equator. The landscape included tropical rain forest. There have three seasons- hot, rain, and cold seasons. These are reflect the wearing of cloth that wrapped around the upper body and worn in the lower part. The textiles are silk, which suit for cold and rainy seasons and cotton suits for hot season. We have an influence of costumes from China and India. The outfit in the picture calls "Thai Chitlada. The men wear chong kra ben, textiles wrap around the waist passed between the legs and tucked in at the back or front as Indian style and wear Chinese spilt pants called sanab plao. The women changed pha sarii of Indian to wrap sabai, shoulder cloth, and wear na nang, pha sin with its front pleats.

 

   

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week

The Academy of Art

Anna Sui

The designers that inspired me are Anna Sui and Academy of Art. 

    I was fascinated by Anna Sui show. I love all printed fabrics, which beautiful and were created specially for her style. Her collection was fresh, young, and exuberant. There are a lot of mini dresses, short pants, suits, and short skirts, which look comfortable. The core color are black violet and blue. I think she is very creative and talented designer, because can mix and match the different patterns of fabric into one pretty outfit. 

    On the other hand, I was so impress the Academy of Art collection. I think the students from AAU have creativity and able to be a famous designer. I can tell from not only Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, but also every single show in New York. This collection show many technique of draping, cutting and fabric pattern. I like the geomatic shape and vivid color. I glad and sheer up with fashion design student. 

     

Fall 2009 Trend Report

One trend of fall 2009 is " Party like it's 1983". The trend go back to 1983. Marc Jacobs led the latest revival with an unapologetic dose of New York nightclub nostalgia . He brought the smart look by metallic leather math with acid -wash jean. Gucci came up with the sexy look of crystal-studed minidress and sharkskin suits. These trend is very sexy and suits for party. Keep in touch with it.