Sunday, October 11, 2009

Compilation of Historical Styles

Classical Revival
1.
Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2008, Paris

This dress was inspired by Ancient Greek. The dress was low cut neck with the high waist, and long dress.

2.
Rutger Jan Schimmelpenninck and his family, 1801-1802, Classical Revival Period-1895-1950

The women wore thin gauzy outer dresses. The dresses were high waist with the loow cut neck and long skirt reaching the floor inspired by Greek in Empire Gown.

Folklore
Thai costume for Rocket Festival, May 16, 2005, Yasothon Thailand

The dresses use for celebrating Rocket Festival, which is a merit-making ceremony traditionally practiced throughout Northeast Thailand by many villages near the beginning of rainy season.

Hippie,San Francisco, Ancient Period-early 1960s

The hippie was originally a youth movement that began in the United Stated during the early 1960s and spread around the world. The word hippie come from hipster, and was initially used to describe beatniks who had moved into San Francisco's Haight-Ashbury district. The hippie garment is worn by a group of people, who has a culture as a myriad forms such as health foods, music festivals and contemporary sexual mores.

Ethnic

Christian Dior, Spring 2008, Paris

The exquisite geometric dress was look like Kimono. The Japanese hair style also blend with the dress give the feeling of modern Japanese garments. John Galliano used the characteristic of Kimono dress for Western fashion.

The kimono is the traditional clothing of Japan. Kimono styles have changed significantly from one period of history to another, with many different types of kimonos worn by men, women and children in Japan today. The cut, color, fabric and decorations of a kimono may vary according to the sex, age and marital status of the wearer, the season of the year and the occasion for which the kimono is worn.Today, a Japanese woman usually owns only one kimono, which she wears for her coming of age ceremony on her 20th birthday. For weddings, a complete bridal kimono and accompanying apparel are usually rented.

Classical Garments
1.
Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2008, Paris.

This dress inspired by Classical Greek garment. It's very feminine by long sheer dress and draping.

2.

The Classical garment of Ancient Greek clothing consisted of lengths of wool or linen, generally rectangular and secured at the shoulders with ornamented pins called fibulae and belted with a sash. Typical garments were the peplos, a loose robe worn by women; the chlamys, a cloak worn by men; and the chiton, a tunic worn by both men and women. Men’s chitons hung to the knees, whereas women’s chitons fell to their ankles. A long cloak called a himation was worn over the peplos or chlamys.


Medieval Garments
1.
Alexander Macqueen, Fall 2007, Paris

This dress from Alexander Macqueen inspired by Medieval garment. It's a long
2.

Charles d'Orleans (1394-1465) and Mary of Cleves (1426-1487) under a canopy. Tapestry from a Brussels workshop. 1470.Location :Musee des Arts Decoratifs, Paris, France. Ancient Period-11th-13th centuries.

Medieval clothing varied according to the social status of the people. The clothing worn by nobility and upper classes was clearly different than the lower class. Early medieval women's clothing consisted of "kirtles", which were tunics worn to their ankles. These tunics were often worn over a shirt. When the women were in public, they often topped the tunics with an even shorter "kirtle." Of course the more affluent women wore more luxurious clothing than those of the less affluent lifestyle. Women, especially those who were married, wore tight-fitting caps and nets over their hair, which was wound in a "bun" on their heads. Other women wore veils over their hair, which was left either hanging loosely, or braided tightly.

Thursday, October 1, 2009

Draped and Tailored garments

Historical Tailored Garments
1. Jeans
Designer-D&G,Models-Abbey Lee,Material-cotton, Spring 2010 RTW, Milan

Jeans was originally patented in 1873 and became popular in 1950 among teenagers. No one doesn't know jeans. Jeans is never fad from fashion world. The historic brands are Levi's and Wrangler. Jeans represents casual dress around the world.

2. Pleated kalasiris
The beginning of Old Kingdom around 2700 B.C.E to the the end of New Kingdom in around 750 B.C.E., Material- linen, Source-Karl Kohler.

The kalasiris was the uniform of the Egyptian woman. The kalasiris was a very close-fitting tube dress, sewn at the side, that was held up by two straps that attached behind the neck. The straps came together at the front and the breasts were exposed. The kalasiris was very elegant by sewing technique and pleated fabric, that fit body so perfectly. Some type of the dress had a single strap that went over one shoulder but were still fitting form.

3. Chinese Uniform
Republic China(1912-1949),Sun Yat-sen and his wife Song Qingling, Shanghai, 1922

Sun Yat-sen worn a jacket with a closed-stand collar and centre-front opening known as Qiling wenzhuang, which was popularly worn by Chinese students in Japan and south-east Asia and inspired by the Japanese student's uniform. Song Qingling worn a jacket and skirt or aoqun.


Historical Draped Garments

1. Sari
Aryan period(about 1500 BC), Materials-silk and cotton, Damayanthi in Sari, Artist- Raja Ravi Varma

women wore one very long piece of cloth called a sari, that they wrapped around themselves in different ways. The word “sari” comes from a Sanskrit word that just means cloth. Wealthy women wore saris made of silk, but most women wore cotton ones.There were many different ways of draping saris. Women wore them like skirts with a top part thrown over their shoulder or worn over their heads as a veil.

2. Buddhist Monk Robe

Ancient period- 400B.C.E., Material-Cotton, Date Photographed-2008,Thailand.

The Buddhist monk robe was designed since 400 BCE. Originally, monks collected discarded fabrics and wore them as their outfit. Nowadays, people donate new robe to munks every year. But the simple concept is still as same as the original. They wrap the fabric around their body and gather it over one shoulder.

3. Stola and Pulla in ancient Rome period

Ancient from early in the Roman Republic(509-27B.C.E.)to late in the Roman Empire(27B.C.E.-476C.E.), Material silk.

The female garment in this period was the stola. It’s a long tunic covering to the foot.The lower hem of the stola is decorated with an ornamental border. The elegant palla is held in place by a broach on the left shoulder. Stola could have short sleeves, long sleeves, and sleeveless. The stola was worn shorter than the under tunic in order to show the layers of the garment, which identify to wealth and status.