Thursday, October 1, 2009

Draped and Tailored garments

Historical Tailored Garments
1. Jeans
Designer-D&G,Models-Abbey Lee,Material-cotton, Spring 2010 RTW, Milan

Jeans was originally patented in 1873 and became popular in 1950 among teenagers. No one doesn't know jeans. Jeans is never fad from fashion world. The historic brands are Levi's and Wrangler. Jeans represents casual dress around the world.

2. Pleated kalasiris
The beginning of Old Kingdom around 2700 B.C.E to the the end of New Kingdom in around 750 B.C.E., Material- linen, Source-Karl Kohler.

The kalasiris was the uniform of the Egyptian woman. The kalasiris was a very close-fitting tube dress, sewn at the side, that was held up by two straps that attached behind the neck. The straps came together at the front and the breasts were exposed. The kalasiris was very elegant by sewing technique and pleated fabric, that fit body so perfectly. Some type of the dress had a single strap that went over one shoulder but were still fitting form.

3. Chinese Uniform
Republic China(1912-1949),Sun Yat-sen and his wife Song Qingling, Shanghai, 1922

Sun Yat-sen worn a jacket with a closed-stand collar and centre-front opening known as Qiling wenzhuang, which was popularly worn by Chinese students in Japan and south-east Asia and inspired by the Japanese student's uniform. Song Qingling worn a jacket and skirt or aoqun.


Historical Draped Garments

1. Sari
Aryan period(about 1500 BC), Materials-silk and cotton, Damayanthi in Sari, Artist- Raja Ravi Varma

women wore one very long piece of cloth called a sari, that they wrapped around themselves in different ways. The word “sari” comes from a Sanskrit word that just means cloth. Wealthy women wore saris made of silk, but most women wore cotton ones.There were many different ways of draping saris. Women wore them like skirts with a top part thrown over their shoulder or worn over their heads as a veil.

2. Buddhist Monk Robe

Ancient period- 400B.C.E., Material-Cotton, Date Photographed-2008,Thailand.

The Buddhist monk robe was designed since 400 BCE. Originally, monks collected discarded fabrics and wore them as their outfit. Nowadays, people donate new robe to munks every year. But the simple concept is still as same as the original. They wrap the fabric around their body and gather it over one shoulder.

3. Stola and Pulla in ancient Rome period

Ancient from early in the Roman Republic(509-27B.C.E.)to late in the Roman Empire(27B.C.E.-476C.E.), Material silk.

The female garment in this period was the stola. It’s a long tunic covering to the foot.The lower hem of the stola is decorated with an ornamental border. The elegant palla is held in place by a broach on the left shoulder. Stola could have short sleeves, long sleeves, and sleeveless. The stola was worn shorter than the under tunic in order to show the layers of the garment, which identify to wealth and status.

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